Surfing Conversations

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The godfather of the local break sat his listeners down as he preached from the back of his van to share one more key to the his approach to the surf life.

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“It’s all in the conversation,” he pointed out. “Take this one guy. He wanted to be with this girl so badly, that he woke up at 5am just to join her morning session. He tried to convince her that he was as experienced as she was in the water, but she saw through his stories. She told him later that she just wanted to be friends.”

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“Some guys chat from the moment they get their toes wet. They talk while they paddle out. They talk while sitting in the lineup. They talk while you’re trying to paddle into a a wave,” the godfather added. “If they’d talk less, they’d catch more.”

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“There’s nothing you can do when high tide turns the break into a swamp,” the godfather continued, “I can’t tell you how many guys end up watching and talking before walking to the closest coffee house to talk some more.”

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“All I can say is…” the godfather paused as if he had changed his last point in mid-breath, “make your words count and paddle more.” He ended his surf-sermon, hugged his listeners, knowing that he would get to preach again the next day.

Notes: All images were shot with an iPhone 4 or 5 with Instagram or VSCO in Seal Beach, California. I originally posted this story on Backspaces.

Published by

mrjoe

I have a family. I work with families. That's why I write about family. I'm a kidmin pastor by day, writer by night, delivery man for my wife's floral design business, and a picture-taker dude 24/7.


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