Wisdom from a Surf Session


When I go to the beach I usually have my phone with me to take pictures of whatever is going on at the time. The pictures can be of people walking on the beach, birds harassing someone trying to enjoy a lunch, and surfers.

This day, I saw Lloyd playing around in small surf. Lloyd is well respected around here. He is an masterful surfer and has been at the local breaks for 5 decades. The surf this day was really small. It was so small that the water barely slapped at the knees. It was so small that most surfers looked from the parking lot and drove away in search of something more significant. It was so small that most of the surfers in the water waited in the lineup for a set of waves worthy of the wait.

Lloyd waited yards closer to the beach. That’s where the waves were even smaller. He caught a lot of waves. It seemed like he was riding one every 2 to 3 minutes. He paddled into one, squat down, then stood up and effortlessly stepped toward the front of his long board. His toes gripped the front end of his board and he kept going as if he was never going to run out of water. On another wave he caught it “backwards.” His board was pointing out to the ocean, and as he caught the wave, Lloyd shuffled his feet and rotated his board 180 degrees as he set up his next move. It was like watching an artist paint on the pier of the beach for people to admire.

Just like some surfers wait for the big set of waves to ride, we can be guilty of the same approach and disdain the “small” stuff. Lloyd catches the “little” waves and turns them into treasure. He turns them into works of art. We all know that person who claims that when he “hits the big time” he’ll do something noble like help out the homeless but isn’t currently making the time to volunteer at a shelter. Think about what you do now and don’t get caught up if it is a small thing. Take your little wave and make is something meaningful.

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mrjoe

I have a family. I work with families. That's why I write about family. I'm a kidmin pastor by day, writer by night, delivery man for my wife's floral design business, and a picture-taker dude 24/7.


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